Region, story and technical precision
Chauhan reveals that the idea of a full beard was rooted in the character’s geography and cultural background. “We knew there was going to be a beard because of the region he comes from, what he’s performing and who he is,” she says. The hair and makeup team played a decisive role as well. They dictated the skin tone, lens colour and texture choices that needed to sync with her costume palette. “Costume and hair and makeup cannot be separated,” Chauhan emphasises. “The look comes alive only when all three, costume, HMU and lighting – work in harmony.”
Ranveer’s inputs and a sharp eye for detail
Chauhan was nervous as she met Ranveer Singh for the first time while working on the movie. However, she says that the actor immediately put her at ease. But Singh was far from a passive participant. He dissected materials, cuts and accessories with precision. He’d ask, ‘Why linen? Why not silk? Why this jewellery? Why this structure?’ According to the designer, his questions pushed her to have solid answers.
Smriti also shares, “And when you have the answers, it gives you more clarity. So with Ranveer, he ensured that he helps the two of us get clarity on the character. He also added some technical bits. He asked me to add a wire on the collar so that it stays like that when he is moving around.”
Ranveer’s physical transformation
One of the biggest challenges for Chauhan’s team was designing for a body that kept changing. Ranveer bulked up for a portion of the film and then shed weight rapidly for another. “We had to ensure that with every change in his body, the clothes didn’t show that change… The look had to stay consistent,” she shares.
The character evolves from a street nobody to someone big. The costumes had to mirror his transformation. Initially, his look is rooted in ruggedness. “So all of this came together working very closely with him. We understood which materials are working the best and which is looking rugged. His entire journey in this film is like that of a nobody becoming somebody, like really big. So that journey itself was grand.”
The nightmare of action-friendly jewellery
Later, as the character rises in stature, accessories become key. Ironically, Chauhan had laughed off Ranveer’s early questions about accessories because of the heavy action sequences. But he persisted. “Cut to the first sequence in the teaser – he is loaded in accessories. I can tell you this, I’ll throw a rug on him and he’ll carry it with perfection. The next thing you know is that we have added so many accessories on him,” she adds.
As the film is packed with lengthy action sequences, some shot over 10 to 12 days, Chauhan’s team had to create silicon jewellery that looked real but wouldn’t injure the actor or break under impact. “It was a nightmare but became necessary.”
The Balochi salwar challenge
One of the film’s most technically challenging pieces was the traditional Balochi salwar. The authentic garment uses 30 to 40 metres of fabric, which is impossible for action scenes. Instead, Chauhan’s team created prototypes using 17 to 20 metres. They experimented with fabric weight, fall, pleats and movement. “We kept making so many prototypes. When he wore it, it looked less; when we spread it out, it was huge. Overall, it was a massive learning experience,” she recalls.
Months of prep, presentations and look tests
The team spent two to three months preparing Ranveer’s looks. They went through six different presentation decks and multiple iterations for each phase of his journey. Three comprehensive look tests were done even before shooting. Moreover, sudden scheduling changes accelerated everything. “We thought we’d shoot in October, but suddenly the shoot got pulled to July. We were like, ‘What?’ But luckily we had done early homework,” she recalls.
The moment Ranveer called her a ‘Rockstar’
Chauhan recalls one of her most overwhelming moments when Ranveer looked at the first major look test and told her he’d “never seen this level of detailing.” “Coming from someone who’s worked with the greatest designers worldwide, it meant the world. It pushed me to raise my own bar,” she says.
Despite the scale, the pressure and the physicality of the film, Chauhan says Ranveer’s collaborative nature made the process smooth. “He is the best team player I could have asked for. His encouragement, his curiosity, his involvement – everything helped build the character’s world,” she quips.
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